Tess's inspiration was military uniforms from the 1800s and early 1900s. The upper sleeve replicates the decadent epilates seen on militia uniforms to this day. While military was her inspiration, it was still a woman’s jacket and she wished it to be feminine, which is why she chose shapely princess seams and lux, silk velvet as two of her design elements. The overall effect was one of stately antiquity.